We’ve gathered some inspiration and scoured our inventory to find solutions for even the smallest spaces, be it the sliver of backyard behind your cozy craftsman or the cruise ship balcony suspended from your brand new microstudio. Browse some of our favorite garden inventory above and our favorite ways to put them to use below.

Pull Up a Chair (or a Burlap Sack)

You don’t need an expansive porch to experience the relaxing benefits of slowing down and taking a seat. Spruce up your tiny balcony, unclaimed parking strip, or old school fire escape with a few plants and a single piece of furniture for an instant slice of solitude.

Design Tip: An outdoor area rug makes a space feel more defined while infusing color and style. If you’re diligent about bringing it inside after use (and before rain) you can use a retired indoor rug, but we don’t recommend using an heirloom!

Second Use Tip: Single chairs are priced to move when they come through Second Use, so you can score some salvagey style without breaking the bank. Feeling creative? Revive it with a fresh coat of paint following this guide!

Browse Our Current Selection of Chairs Online Now

Create a Cozy Corner or Instant Guest Bedroom

Double the impact of your outdoor space with a comfortable couch or hammock that allows long term lounging in the dry season.

Design Tip: Living in a city home to the likes of REI, we have access to the latest in outdoor fabric innovations. Gone are the days of being restricted to function or form, weatherproof upholstery is now available in a wide range of colors and textures. Seattle Outdoor Fabrics on Aurora offers a wide selection of all weather textiles, check them out!

Second Use Tip: Looking for an inexpensive covering with rustic appeal? We sell burlap sacks at both of our locations for just a $1.50!

Build The Perfect Perch

Take your work or brunch outdoors with one of these handy ledges that saves on space while double downing on functionality.

Design Tip: Use window boxes and mounted planters to display plants without sacrificing elbow room.

Second Use Tip: Think beyond dimensional lumber when searching for a salvaged ledge: stair treads, shelving, and other architectural material may make the perfect ledge with just a few tweaks. Check out our architectural section for wood finishings as well as table legs, shelf brackets, and other details for your project.

Protect Your Privacy

Complete the illusion of your oasis with privacy features that shields you from the reality that lies on the other side. We love these plant barriers that lend truly submersive experience, but lattice, salvaged panelling, outdoor curtains, or good old bamboo blinds also do the trick.

Design Tip: If growing a lush forest of bamboo or vines seems out of reach for your less than green thumb, you can use hanging plants and plant stands in front of your barrier to get a garden feel with less maintenance.

Second Use Tip: Buying cedar lattice, old gates, wood panelling, and retired fencing second hand isn’t just less expensive, but may be aesthetically more desirable with a little patina.

Browse our architectural category for gates, panelling, and other odds and ends but also check in store because one off pieces of flat stock may not get posted if they are less than $10.

Have you transformed your patio using salvaged goods? Send a pic to be included in our Customer Project Gallery to: maryanne@seconduse.com

Don’t forget to share pictures of your completed cold frame to maryanne@seconduse.dev for a chance to have your project featured on the blog!

TOOLS

-safety glasses
-gloves
-ear protection
-screw gun or screw driver
-wood drill bits
-tape measure
-hammer
-saw – chop saw, hacksaw, reciprocating saw, skill saw, hand saw or trim saw
-metal cutting tool
-angle grinder
-pencil
-saw horses
-speed square
-framing square
-socket set, if needed for hardware
-clamps
-level
-rubber mallet
-post-hole digger

1. Think through the functionality of your garden gate
   1. Determine how durable it needs to be. How much traffic will the gate get? Will you be walking through it with materials that may bang against it? Do you want this gate to provide any security?
   2. Determine what size the gate should be. Are you building off of an existing fence, with the spacing already determined? Will you be bringing your lawnmower through the gate? Are you attached to any certain kind of hardware?
2. Scope out what materials you have lying around that you can use in your salvaged gate project
   1. Salvaged items that can dress up your gate include lumber, security bars, shelf brackets, cables, tiles, tool handles, fence boards, pieces of pallets, glass blocks, copper piping, cedar shakes, radiator covers, wrought iron, etc. Get creative! These items can be found anywhere from the street corner to your local salvage store
3. Insert posts in the space where the garden gate will go, if needed
   1. Dig two holes with a post-hole digger. If your soil is rocky, you may need a rock bar or auger
   2. The holes for the posts should be roughly 1/3 the length of the post, for sufficient sturdiness
   3. There are many different options for lumber, but they should be generally rot-resistant. Some good options for wood include cedar, pressure-treated wood, and any tropical wood, such as ipe, mahogany and teak
      1. You may want to avoid pressure-treated wood if the post will be in contact with edible plants
   4. Many different sizes will work, but 4x4s or 6x6s are good dimensions for posts
   5. Secure the posts with gravel or concrete
      1. Be careful not to pull the posts up as the concrete is setting, or you may create gaps underneath the posts. This could make the post less stable and make it susceptible to rotting
      2. The concrete or gravel on ground level should slope slightly toward the ground, rather than toward the post. This will prevent water from pooling up and rotting the bottom of the post
   6. Make sure the posts are plumb with a level
   7. You may consider further solidifying the posts by building an arbor at the top of the posts
   8. Read the concrete’s packaging for drying instructions, but plan on waiting a day for it to dry
4. Build the frame for your garden gate
   1. If the size is not flexible, plan such that there will be a ¼” gap between the posts and the gate
      1. You may need to leave more space, depending on your hardware choices
   2. Similar to the posts, be sure to use a wood that is rot-resistant, but avoid pressure-treated wood if it is in contact with edible plants
   3. Many different sizes will work, but generally try to use something that is a 2×4 or thicker
   4. Make sure your joints are solid
5. Fill your frame with different salvaged materials
   1. Similar to the posts and frame, if using wood, be sure to choose kinds that are rot-resistant, except when in contact with edible plants
   2. Cross bars provide aesthetic value and lend structural integrity to the gate
      1. If the gate is made out of metal, cross bars may not be necessary, as there is less concern with warping
      2. Diagonal supports also provide aesthetic value and lend structural integrity to the gate
         1. If you are using wood for a diagonal support, make sure it runs from the top corner of the latch-side of the gate to the bottom corner of the hinge-side. This helps distribute weight effectively
         2. If you are using cables and a turn buckle for the diagonal support, the cable will run the opposite way—from the top corner of the hinge-side to the bottom corner of the latch-side
   3. Be mindful how much weight you put into the frame. Roughly 45 pounds or less is a good target weight. With more weight than that, you should further secure the posts and frame
   4. Move things around and try different patterns to assess the aesthetic value
6. Attach hardware to the gate and posts
   1. Assess which way you want the gate to swing or if you want it to swing both ways
   2. Again, assess the function of the gate. For security, use a sturdier piece of hardware. For a chicken coop, you can use something that is more light-duty
   3. Similarly, assess the weight of the gate, before choosing hardware
   4. Aesthetics may also be a consideration
   5. You may consider door hinges, slide bolt latches, swivel hinges or strap hinges. Some kinds of hardware allow gates to swing both ways
   6. Be aware of which kinds of hardware rust and whether you want the hardware to rust, before deciding on the hardware
   7. Attach the hardware to the gate and posts with stainless steel screws, to prevent streaks of rust
   8. You can use salvaged door hinges if you oil them first
   9. You may also considering putting casters on the bottom of the gate, to relieve stress from the hinges and prevent sagging. This is especially helpful in heavy or wide gates
   10. Just remember to plan accordingly for hardware spacing, before getting too far on the construction of the garden gate
   11. Make sure the gate is level and plumb

TOOLS
-rubber mallet
-stone or brick hammer
-broad chisel
-mini sledge hammer
-rebar or iron stakes
-mason or string line
-string level
-edging materials, if desired
-1′, 2′ and/or 4′ levels
-shovels (flat and round)
-8-10″ tamping plate or plate compactor
-small tamping rod
-hard rake
-broom
-broad hand trowel
-safety glasses
-gloves

1. Collect materials for the patio
   1. Though the different materials can have varying thicknesses, they should all be at least 1” thick, preferably at least 1 ¾” thick
   2. If the materials are too thin, they are likely to shift around or fracture
   3. Be mindful of how Seattle’s rain will affect the materials you select
   4. Avoid materials that will be slippery when wet. However, you can flip over some materials, such as granite, to avoid the slippery surface
   5. Many pieces have a slightly different color when they are wet. Since we live in a wet climate, make sure you like the color wet, in addition to dry
   6. Some ideas for materials in salvaged patios—broken countertops from remodels, broken concrete from driveway projects, bricks, stones, weights from old gym sets, etc. Be creative!
2.  If necessary, break up the materials
   1. Always wear safety glasses during this process
   2. For some pieces, you can drop them on the ground and let them break naturally
   3. For other pieces, you can use tools. Common tools include a single jack hammer, sledge hammer, brick hammer, chisel and grinder with a diamond blade
   4. Know going into it that the pieces will almost never break naturally where you want them to, but with practice and good technique, you can make it happen. This is one of the reasons it’s best to be flexible with your patio design
   5. For increased control, make a line down the stone with the chisel and hammer or score it with a grinder. This will weaken that spot. Then, tap the spot with a hammer. The piece should break away
   6. To further alter the materials, you may consider adding a common masonry sealant to any materials after you have installed them. Sealants prevent wear and tear from moisture and will also give the materials a darker color
3.  Evaluate your yard for the functionality and usability of your patio
   1. Think about where you want to walk or sit. How is the sun or shade in that area? Will the landscaping affect that area positively or negatively? For example, if you want a fire pit on your patio, you must keep it away from trees and other plants. Also, be aware of the potential impact from growing tree roots pushing up your pavers
   2. You may consider calling the Utility Notification Center if you live in Washington, Oregon, Montana or Hawaii. This is a service to find out what kinds of utility pipes exist in your yard
   3. The strong majority of the time, heavy-duty piping is far enough below the surface that it will not interfere with your patio project
   4. Sometimes, you will run into sprinkler pipes when you dig. As these are only PVC pipes, it is fairly simple to cut them, add an elbow to them, and reroute the pipes
4.  Within the area you’ve set aside for your patio, remove the vegetative layer of sod and dirt, and dig down
   1. You must be able to lay a minimum of 3-4” of packed-down gravel on top of the ground, so dig deep enough to accommodate to it
   2. You may also consider putting down a layer of landscape fabric to serve as a weed block. It’s not necessary but may be helpful. Packing down all the layers well should result in limited weed growth
5.  If you want to use edging, place it in the perimeter of the pathway or patio space
   1. Edging is helpful to serve as a guide with uniform materials such as bricks and also to hold in small items that may want to shift around
   2. Edging can be aluminum or plastic, or it can be pressure-treated lumber or cedar
   3. The size and placement of the edging just depends on your personal taste
6.  Then, lay down the aforementioned 3-4” minimum of gravel
   1. Use a tamping plate or plate compactor to pack down the layer
   2. Tamping isn’t a necessity, but the more you pack, the more the stone will stay put on top of it. Also, the more you pack, the longer your patio is likely to last
   3. Wetting the gravel will help pack it down
7.  Finally, lay down ¼”- ¾” of a finer material on top of the gravel
   1.  ¼ minus is optimal, and sand is preferred for brickwork
   2. This layer should remain unpacked until the pieces are set
   3. You can use a hard rake and rectangular trowel to smooth out the top layer
8.  Set up a string across the patio to serve as a guide when you put down your stones. It will help to ensure the patio will be level and keep your desired shape
   1. First put rebar stakes into the ground on either side of the patio
   2. Connect the stakes with a mason or string line going across the patio. Use as many stakes and strings as is necessary to provide guidance
   3. Make sure the strings are taut
   4. Put a string level onto the strings and adjust the strings to level
   5. Strings are especially effective in keeping straight lines for uniform materials such as bricks or square pavers
   6. You can also just lay the stones down freely and continuously take a level to it
   7. You may not want your patio level if you have drainage concerns. For instance, if your patio is near your house, you will want water to drain away from the house. Adjust your string or level accordingly
   8. A general rule is to have a 1” height difference for every 10’
9.  Starting in the corner of your patio space, put down the first stone or salvaged material
   1. Wiggle it into its space
   2. Check if it’s level
   3. Check if it’s wobbly
   4. To adjust, pull the piece away, add or remove gravel underneath it, and check it again. When the piece is put back, fill in any gaps that you may have created underneath it
   5. Pound the piece with a rubber mallet to set it
   6. You can hit the piece hard with the rubber mallet. Never use a hard hammer, though
   7. Check it for level again
10.  Picking a piece that will look aesthetically pleasing next to the first one, lay down the next piece of stone or salvaged material
    1. Some people like to dry-fit all the pieces in the patio before setting any of them
    2. Decide how far apart you want the pieces. If you want to put grass or plants in between the stones, leave bigger gaps. If it’s more aesthetically pleasing to have a tighter fit, place the pieces closer together
    3. Wooly thyme, Irish moss, steppable oregano, some succulent plants and even decorative items provide a nice finished look in between the pieces and help them stay in place
    4. The closer the pieces are together, the more likely they are to stay in place
11.  Continue this process with the rest of the pieces
    1. Use the natural shape of the pieces to fit the patio together
    2. When necessary, chip a little bit off of the pieces to fit them into the space
    3. When using unusual items, remember that they need to be flush to the other pieces. Otherwise they will pose a tripping hazard
    4. Pack the top layer around the stones with your rubber mallet to ensure the stones will stay in place
12.  When the stones are all set, fill in the gaps with the top layer
    1. You can also spray water on the patio to solidify the top layer in between the pieces
    2. Sweep or spray away any excess